So good to be back here in my little blogging corner. We have quite a complicated summer here, as a matter of fact. E’s father is in a very serious health condition and we have this strange mixture of being next to his bad while trying to have some happy family summer activities, as the kids are having their summer school break. Few days ago we have came to that point, where we finally understood we have to cancel our plans for our family vacation. We planned to visit Normandy & Brittany France, but with the current situation, it’ll have to wait for some other time. We think the best thing will be to stay close and spend as much time next to him. We love him like words can’t tell, he is the sweetest dad and grandfather ever and I prey for him to have it as easy as possible. We will be here for him, very close, with all the love we have to give and will support him with everything we can. 29 So, at this point in life being here, having the option to share this lovely Lace bag looks like heaven to me, isn’t it? I know some of you have waited to have this pattern written down here. Thank you for your patience and interest, I really appreciate it + it makes me very very happy. I still plan to add some flowers and leaves on top of it but lets first start with crocheting the bag. Flowers and leaves will come later.

The pattern I’ll share here today is the original bag size I’ve crocheted, but as soon as you understand the principle you’ll be able to change it to whatever size you like.

BAG SIZE
With a Granny Kit cotton and a 2.5 mm crochet hook, your bag will come out about:
Width = 23.5 c”m
Hight = 23 c”m  not including the straps.
The straps will add about 19 c”m more to your bag size.

WHAT DO YOU NEED
Yarn: 2 balls of GrannyKit cotton colour: Lace
If you crochet very lose you’ll need 3 balls of Granny Kit cotton.
Crochet hook: 2.5 mm (if your hand is too soft on the hook please use a 2 mm crochet hook)
A pair of crafty scissors
Tapestry needle A ABREVIATIONS AND STITCHES (US crochet terms)
ch = chain stitch
st(s) = stitch(s)
rnd(s) = round(s)
yo = yarn over
lp(s) = loop(s)
sk = skip
ch sp = chain space
*…* = repeat instructions between ** x times

sl st = slip stitch = insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st and through the lp on your hook.
sc = single crochet = insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st (2 lps on hook), yo and pull through both lps on hook.
dc = double crochet = yo, insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st (3 lps on hook), yo and pull through 2 lps on hook (2 lps left on hook), yo and pull through remaining 2 lps.

To start ch 53
rnd 1: make 3 dc’s in the 4th ch from hook – shown by my sewing pin in the picture below. 1 Now dc in each of the next 48 sts. Make 5 dc’s into last st in row – tighten to close the hole. It should look like bellow pic now. 2 Continue working around, work on the other side of your foundation ch now, dc in each of the next 48 sts, using the other lp of each ch st of your foundation ch. Try to work on your yarn tail so you don’t have to weave it in later. When you reach the end, add 1 more dc into the first st, to the point shown by my sewing pin in the picture below. 3 To close this rnd, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch 3. Your work should look like the below picture now.
You should have 48 dc’s on each side + 5dc’s in each corner, We made 106 sts in total on this rnd. 4 rnd 2: ch3 (counts as first dc) and make 1 dc into the same point, the base of ch3 – into the point where I show with my sewing pin in the picture below. 5 Make 2 dc’s in each of next 3 sts. Now make 1 dc in each of the next 48 sts. When you reach the corner, you have 5 corner sts right? I show them with my sewing pins in the picture below, make 2 dc’s in each of the 5 corner sts. 6 Continue working 1 dc in each of the next 48 sts. When you reach the first corner again, make 2 dc’s in last remaining st on this rnd – this is a corner st -shown by my sewing pins. 7 Sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch 3. Your work should look like the below picture now. You should have 48 dc’s in each side + 10 dc’s in each corner. (116 sts)  8a We have just finished to create the base of the bag. In next rnds we will work the ‘body’ of the bag.

rnds 3-6 (4 rnds): ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch 3. (116 sts)

rnd 7 : ch1 (counts as first sc), sc in each st around, sl st into the first ch made. (116 sts)
Your work should look like the below picture now, you start to see a bag here at this point.  9 rnd 8 : sc into the point where you made your last sl st – to the point shown by my sewing pin at the picture below. 10 *ch4, sk 1, sc in next* repeat between ** all the way around. When you reach the end of the rnd sl st in the first sc made. 11 You should have 58 ch4 spaces around, at the end of this rnd and your work should look like the below picture now. 12 rnd 9 : sl st twice in the next ch space, sc in same ch space. *ch 4, sc in next ch sp* repeat between ** all the way around. sl st in the first sc made. You have 58 ch4 spaces around, at the end of this rnd and your work should look like the below picture. 13 rnd 10 : sl st twice in the next ch space, sc in same ch space. *ch 2, sc in next ch sp* repeat between ** all the way around. sl st in the first sc made. You have 58 ch2 spaces and 58 sc’s at the end of this rnd. 14 rnd 11 : sc 2 in next ch space, sc 2 in each ch sp around. When you reach the end of the rnd sl st in the first sc made. Your work should look like the below picture now. 15 rnd 12: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around. sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch 3. (116 sts) 17 rnds 13-22 (10 rnds): rep rnds 3-12
At the end of rnd 22 your work should look like the below picture.
18 rnds 23-32 (10 rnds): rep rnds 3-12 again. At the end of rnd 32 your work should look like the below picture. 19 rnd 33-34 (2 rnds): ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around. sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch 3. (116 sts)

rnd 35 : ch1 (counts as first sc), sc in each st around, sl st into the first ch made and break the yarn and weave in tail. (116 sts)
We have just finished to work on the bag body now and you work should look like the below picture.  20 Straps: Each strap is made out of two separate parts that will be crocheted as follow:
To start:
attach your yarn into the 9th st from one side of the bag. Start counting the sts from the point I show below with my sewing pin.

row 1: ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in each of the next 8 sts. (9 sts) 21 row 2: ch 1 and turn – this is a turning ch and it doesn’t count as a st.  sc in each of the next 9 sts (don’t forget to sc in the 3rd ch of your initial ch3). (9 sts)
Can you see the strap starting to grow? You work should look like the below picture now. 22 row 3: ch 3 and turn (counts as first dc), dc in each of the next 8 sts. (9 sts)

rows 4-31 (28 rows): rep rows 2-3 , make sure you end up with a dc’s row. Break the yarn. First half of first strap is done! 23 Now make the other half of the strap. Attach your yarn into the parallel st on the other side of the bag and repeat instructions given above up to row 30.  24 Now crochet row 31 and join the two halves together as you go. We will join them with sl st at the end of each dc we crochet. Crochet row 31 as follow:

row 31: ch3 (counts as first dc) and make a sl st into the first st on the first half of the strap, into the point shown below with my sewing pin. 25 Now work 1 dc into the next st on your row and than sl st into the next st on the first half made, into the point shown by my sewing pin on below picture.  26 Continue working like the above till you finish row 31 and all sts are joined together. You first strap is done and it should look like the below picture now. Break the yarn and weave in tails.
Now work the other side strap exactly the same way we just crocheted the first one.  27 You have both straps made. 32 Blocking: what I usually do is just spray a little water on, I usually “help” the edges look sharp by organizing them and make them straight with my fingers and after that I lay flat to dry over night. You don’t have to do it but it’ll help your work look more tidy.   28 That is all for today, hope you enjoyed my White lace bag step-by-step tutorials. The 2 balls of White Lace cotton are now available here. Please share your work with us on IG usung #whitelacebag and let me know if you add any flowers or any other decoration on top of your White Lace bag. I have so much more to share here with you and I hope to be able to be here again soon. xoxMo