Are you ready now for a LooooooOOOooong tutorial? well, as this tutorial is too long for one post I’ve wrote it in 2 parts. It will give you more time to crochet the first part before we meet here again for the second one. I made this delicious rose cushion using Granny Kit cotton and post it over my IG and FB, as I go and GOSH you loved it…… so I wrote it down for you here, as a nice step by step tutorial and you can make one on your own. Hope you’ll enjoy it and if you do make one please share it on your IG with #myrosecushion. And yes, thanks for asking, the kids are still at home with me (with me, so much with me) so I’ve placed my computer and camera on the kitchen table and wrote this tutorials while juggling in between kids, kitchen and blog post, super super happy here….. real life things.
But we talk crochet love now. You can find many patterns for dc’s circle, or for roses and leaves, out there on the web, BUT in this tutorial you’ll follow my own patterns, so, put your hands on your hook and follow me. ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….
What do you need:
My rose cushion kit
Crochet hook: 3/ 3.25mm & 2.5mm.
Tapestry needle.
40 cm round cushion pad, to fill it up.
Stitches & Abbreviations :: US terms ::
round = rnd
loop(s) = lp(s)
yarn over = yo
stitch(es) = st(s)
chain stitch = ch
repeat = rep

space(s) = sp(s)
sl st = slip stitch = insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st and through the lp on your hook.
sc = single crochet = insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st (2 lps on hook), yo and pull through both lps on hook.
hdc = half double crochet = yo, insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st (3 lps on hook), yo and pull through all 3 lps on hook.
dc = double crochet = yo, insert hook, yo, pull the lp back through the st (3 lps on hook), yo and pull through 2 lps on hook (2 lps left on hook), yo and pull through remaining 2 lps.

OK, let’s get started, follow me, I’ll show you how to…..
FLAT CIRCLES
With colour Foggy make a flat circle – make 2 of them. cirmagic
Start with a magic loop
rnd 1: ch3 (counts as first dc, from now on) and make 11 dc’s into the centre of the ring.
Sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3 (tighten your sl st, it’ll help it look ‘seamless’. Now tighten the yarn tail to close the loop, leave just a small centre hall. (12 sts)
rnd 2: ch3, make 2dc in each of the next 11 sts.
cira1 now dc into the same point where your initial ch3 started (the point I show with this needle above)
Sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3 to close. (24 sts)
cir2 rnd 3: ch3, dc in next, *2dc in next, dc in next st* repeat between ** to the end.
cir4 now dc into the same point where your initial ch3 started
sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (36 sts)
rnd 4: ch3, dc in next 2 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 2 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (48 sts)
rnd 5: ch3, dc in next 3 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 3 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (60 sts) cir2a
rnd 6: ch3, dc in next 4 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 4 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (72 sts)
rnd 7: ch3, dc in next 5 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 5 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (84 sts)
rnd 8: ch3, dc in next 6 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 6 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (96 sts)
rnd 9: ch3, dc in next 7 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 7 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (108 sts)
rnd 10: ch3, dc in next 8 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 8 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (120 sts)
cir5 rnd 11: ch3, dc in next 9 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 9 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (132 sts)
rnd 12: ch3, dc in next 10 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 10 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (144 sts)
rnd 13: ch3, dc in next 11 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 11 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (156 sts)
rnd 14: ch3, dc in next 12 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 12 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (168 sts)
rnd 15: ch3, dc in next 13 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 13 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (180 sts)
rnd 16: ch3, dc in next 14 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 14 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (192 sts)
rnd 17: ch3, dc in next 15 sts, *2dc in next, dc in next 15 sts* repeat between ** to the end.
now dc into the same point, where your initial ch3 started, sl st into the 3rd ch of your initial ch3. (204 sts) cir6
rnd 18: ch1 (counts as first sc), sc in each st around, sl st into the first ch1 made, to close. (204 sts)
FASTEN OFF and weave in all tails. First circle made. cir7 Now Make one more flat circle in the same way, so you have front and back.
ROSES
I made 3 roses in 3 different colours: BABY PINK, BERRY & FRAMBOISE.
MY ROSE PATTERN
Make the Baby pink rose flower with 3.25 mm hook as follow: rose1 Start with ch 25,
row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc across (24 sts) rose2
row 2: ch 3 and turn, (dc, ch1, 2dc) – all in same sts where you just made your initial ch3, sk 1.
*(2 dc, ch1, 2dc) all in one st, sk 1*  repeat between ** to last st. Sl st to last. rose3
row 3: ch 1 and turn, in the first sp (where I show at the above picture) make: hdc + 6dc. rose4 Into the next gap (see above picture, where my sewing pin is) make: sl st, ch1, slst. rose5 *7dc in next sp, (sl st, ch1, sl st) – all in next gap* repeat between to end. rose6
You should have 12 petals when you finish this row.
rose7
FASTEN OFF leaving about 40 cm’ tail end for stitching up later (you’ll need this tail for closing the rose + for stitching on the cushion front). weave in just the short tail. rose8
Now, start curling the petals around in a spiral, as I show in the above picture and stitch it up with your long tail end. rose9
Turn your work and look at the back, make sure the petals are in the same line with your foundation chain. Continue to curl the petals round in a spiral while you sew them and hold them in place. rose11 rose12
Design the position of the petals the way you like. make the finishing stitches when you are happy with what you see. DO NOT CUT THE YARN TAIL and leave the tapestry needle on your yarn tail for later.
Your first rose is made, do you like it?
Now, redo the same pattern with colour Berry and use 2.5 mm size hook.
SMALL ROSE PATTERN make a Framboise rose with 3.25mm hook.
Start with ch 27,
row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc across (26 sts) rose14
row 2: ch2 and turn, make 4dc into the same st where you just made your ch2. sl st in next.
*5dc in next, sl st in next* repeat between to end (13 petals).
rose15 Now, with the long tail, start curling the petals around in a spiral (as I show in the above picture). rose19 DO NOT CUT THE YARN TAIL, leave the tapestry needle on it, for later.  rosea
And there you are with these 3 lovely roses ready to be part of your bouquet. Are you ready now for making the leaves?
LEAF
Make one of each: Mint, Lime green, Citron & Apple. use 2.5mm hook.
For this tutorial photos I worked with colour Citron.
leaf1a ch 9, start in 2nd ch from hook and work the following: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2dc, dc, hdc, at the last st make: sc+ch2+sl st.
leaf-1 Now work the other side of the leaf,using the opposite side loop of your foundation ch. work as follow: sc, hdc, dc, 2dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st into the last.
leaf3 FASTEN OFF leave a long tail end to the stitching, later. leaf4 Weave in the short tail.
LONG LEAF
Make one leaf from colour Aqua.
ch 11, start in 2nd ch from hook and work the following: sl st, sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2dc, dc, hdc, sc. at the last st work: sl st+ch2+sl st.
Now work the other side as follow: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, 2dc, dc, hds, sc, sl st in last 2.
Now FASTEN OFF leaving a long tail to sew it later and weave in the short tail only. leafa
And your leaves are ready now. Hope you’re happy cause these guys can really make you happy. roseleavesbuttons
This is what I call delicious  …  D e l i c i o u s … don’t eat it 🙂  if you want to leave them on your table just like that forever, that’s aBsolutely fine with me. But if you want to follow my cushion instructions lets continue.
Place you beautiful bouquet arrangement on one of your flat circles centre.
bouq1 Take one of your flat circles and place your flowers and leaves on the centre of it’s right side, this is the sweetest part of this tutorial. Make your bouquet beautifully positioned. bouq2 Now we’ll start stitching it up. It’s better to work now on a table so if you’re working on the sofa, like me, it’s time to move to the table. My method to sew this bouquet perfectly, without flattening the flowers is :: first thread a needle into each of your yarn tails, in each flower and each leaf. Than I stitch them all at the same time, a little of each. I sew one of the leaves a little and than stitch one of the flowers and than back to another leaf – in this way I can control the position of each item and the way it gets connected with the others :: hope I’m clear (me and my poor English) look at the pictures I’ll put more of them and talk less….:)

bouq3 bouq4 bouq5 You actually need to sew them on the front side of the cushion but also to connect them one to the other in a gentle way and try to hide your stitches, and connect them together very carefully. Make sure they sit nicely on the front centre, but at the same time try not to flatten their three-dimensionality.  bouq6  That’s how your back side should look like, when you finish stitching up your bouquet. bouq7 cushionblog3 And the front side, as you can see I haven’t completely connected the leaves, I left the top part of them unconnected to allow it’s fresh flowery feel. button1 This is all for now lovelies, If you’re still here…… thank you so much for joining my first part tutorials, for my rose cushion. We will meet again on my next blog post with the second part, where I’ll show you how to connect the front and back side of the cushion, with this nice shell edge. We will make a nice opening with these little pretty fabric buttons, which are part of the kit. etsy3blog ‘My rose cushion’ kit is available at the shop now. If you are a subscriber to my blog, then you’ll get an email, tomorrow,  with a coupon code for 10% off this lovely kit. If you’r not a subscriber yet than hurry up and subscribe today. Within this kit you’ll get 11 balls of GrannyKit cotton in all colours you need for this project, together with 7 tiny little Liberty of London fabric buttons. I hope you enjoyed my tutorial, looking forward to seeing your beautiful roses and leaves on IG with hashtag #myrosecuhion. See you soon, with the second part of the tutorial, xoxMo